Dervla Louli Musgrave, Founder of Compare Retreats

As the founder + Editor-in-chief of CompareRetreats.com, a luxury well-being retreat discovery platform for the world’s leading wellness destinations, Dervla Louli Musgrave is a lady on a mission to bring much needed transparency to the wellness travel industry. With her impeccable style + otherworldly travels the Irish-born, Hong Kong based entrepreneur has created not only her dream job but a much needed safe, reliable + those seeking their escape + the next step on their inward journey.

Here Dervla speaks about her career + shifting gears, her own wellness routines + what’s next on her list once international travel resumes..

HSF - Dervla, firstly if you would, tell us a little about yourself + how have you been over the past year of crazy changes through the pandemic?

DLM - I’m an Egyptian Irish wellness travel entrepreneur + lifestyle editor based between Hong Kong + Ireland. I’ve worked for Tatler, contribute to Vogue + love geeking out about digital + print content creation. I founded CompareRetreats.com in 2017 to help people find + book the best tried, tested + trusted wellness retreats around the world + have three gorgeous rescue puppies Roxy, Clive + Chloé.

My initial reaction to the pandemic was to stress bake + I started a botanical baking business in Hong Kong. Once the initial shock wore off I made important + difficult business decisions to ensure CompareRetreats.com would survive the pandemic + thrive once travel resumes. I came to Ireland for Christmas to see my parents + have been here ever since, it’s been special to have so much time at home with family + friends.

HSF - What originally attracted you to Hong Kong as a city?

DLM - It’s small, dense, easy to navigate + is extremely dynamic + fast. I had just graduated from Trinity with a masters of finance + wanted to work for HSBC in Hong Kong but ended up pursuing publishing once I arrived. It’s a vibrant city full of hikes, beaches, secret islands + a perfect hub from which to explore Asia. I love the mix of high rises, markets, positive people + the incredible food scene.

HSF - Prior to founding Compare Retreats, you had an inspiring career in publishing - what lessons did you take with you from that time?

DLM - In my opinion content now has to work harder than ever so keep that in mind when you’re creating it. Plan out how you can edit it for social, digital + print before you put pen to paper or pick up a camera. I think listening to feedback, constantly learning new skills + knowing when to move on if you’ve stopped learning are three useful lessons.

HSF - For those new to it’s concept, explain exactly what Compare Retreats is as a platform + what it offers wellness seekers..

DLM - CompareRetreats.com is a bible of the best five star wellness + fitness retreats around the world. Less than 1% of wellness retreats worldwide meet the criteria + my approach is quality over quantity. We offer exclusive benefits via our travel concierge + booking portal + in depth reviews by certified health + fitness professionals. The retreat collection + our clientele are global so we can always find a retreat that suits someone whether that’s a sleep retreat in Thailand, an Ayurveda getaway in India or a spa break in Ireland. I’ve personally vetted most of the retreats + each one offers something very special. We even have a wellness retreat in the wild for animal + nature lovers.

HSF - What are some of the things that must be present, values so to speak, when you choose a retreat to add to the platforms exclusive collection?

DLM - Each property in the collection is so unique so there’s no set criteria per se but in general it must be beautiful + comfortable with excellent wellness experts, customer service + facilities. The retreat programmes must be transformative too.

HSF - What has been the retreat you’ve most loved?

DLM - There are too many to count but Aro Ha, COMO Shambhala Estate, Amanoi, Nihi Sumba, Royal Mansour + Joali are some standout spots.

HSF - And the one highest on your bucket list?

DLM - I was supposed to go to India in 2020 but life had other plans so Vana + Ananda are both high on my list.

HSF - As a tech + wellness entrepreneur, how do you see the industry changing due to COVID; where do you see things settling for both retreat hosts + wellness lovers in search of their bliss..

DLM - I think it will come back stronger than ever, we just need to be patient. I do see a huge increase in travel insurance sales, reliance on independent travel experts + longer stays on the horizon. We have received enquiries every day since COVID hit so the demand is there + as soon as it’s safe to send our clients away they’ll be running to retreats.

HSF - In being your own boss, how do you manage a work/life balance? It can be all consuming at times, especially, I find, when we love what we do so much + it doesn’t feel like work..

DLM - I have an amazing small team who help me get through a lot of the work that comes with running CompareRetreats.com + I love writing + creating content so much it’s not work per se because it’s second nature to me now. I think the reason we work for ourselves is because we find joy in building our own dreams instead of someone else’s. So I would say I don’t balance my work and my life, I just go with the flow.

HSF - What does a day in your life look like typically?

DLM - I naturally wake up at around 7 or 8 do some daily affirmations in bed, kiss my husband, tell my dogs how wonderful they are, then some water + coffee and go outside for a stroll if it’s a nice day while checking emails, booking enquiries, Instagram or I’ll do a PT session with a trainer. I’m not into breakfast so I usually have some eggs + fruit around midday + do most conference calls, Zooms + meetings in the afternoon. You’ll then probably catch me scrolling through Net-a-Porter trying to navigate what to wear through Ireland’s ever changing temperatures before catching up with friends. I’m loving Sporty & Rich tracksuits + anything cosy by Varley at the moment. Most of my writing for publishing clients happens at night while I listen to the extended version of Intro by The XX on repeat. Playing the same track when I need to write tells my brain it’s work mode. Then it’s time for my evening skincare routine which includes Skinceuticals and Dr. Lara Devgan serums, Augustinus Bader cream, Sarah Chapman’s oil, Amanda Harrington tan + some Gua Sha massage. My skin changed in my thirties + I’m now vigilant about preventing acne + pigmentation. I put on some Olivia Von Halle pyjamas, journal affirmations Sonia Samtani has given me that month + put on a SLIP mask before reading a book + lights out.

HSF - Hopefully we’ll get back to traveling at some point in the near future.. what are some of your top tips to remain balanced when traveling?

DLM - Allow yourself to let loose + have fun (you’re on a holiday after all!) + just make sure to keep on top of your three or four most important wellness habits. For me that means staying hydrated, only eating when I’m hungry, getting enough sleep + getting outdoors in nature for a walk on a daily basis if I can.

If you’re on a wellness retreat your day will be laid out so just try to let your mind rest while the experts take you through your paces. If you feel a resistance towards the regime you’re on breathe through it + remember positive change is always uncomfortable but worth it. Look at a retreat like a mini hero journey with lessons to teach you about yourself along the way. If you’re resisting eliminating coffee for example it’s because you’re probably too dependant or attached to it, be gentle + kind with yourself at all times.

HSF - What will we always find in your check-in // hand luggage?

DLM - Clarins Rose Hip lip balm, some cashmere, BOSE noise-cancelling headphones, Chanel card holder, Smythson notebook, a Maison Michel sun hat if I’m going somewhere warm, my Macbook + Kindle. In my dreams my poodle would be in there too.

HSF - When not participating at an in-person retreat, how do you value wellness in your everyday life?

DLM - I think wellness is an inside job that you can get outside help for but you need to invest time + effort into it. I work on my body, mind + spirit a little bit every day + from what I’ve learned it all begins with loving yourself so that everyone around you gets the best version of you.

HSF - I call them my daily positive practices, those things you know you just simply aren’t your full self when you skip them. Do you have daily rituals do you swear by?

DLM - Here’s my daily wellness list that Sonia Samtani helped me develop. It used to be very military + now it’s a lot softer which is great. Be Happy, Have Fun, Eat Protein, Move, Journal, Rest. I love this list + it works for me because they’re invitations not orders.

HSF - We connected recently through DM’s on Instagram when I shared about my experience with an eating disorder. I consider those who have recovered to have a strength so deep it makes you somewhat unbreakable once you’re through it. How has your own experience with an eating disorder + recovering from it played a part in shaping you as a person, both personally + professionally?

DLM - For most of my teenage + adult life I struggled with unhealthy eating patterns + beliefs around food. It wasn’t until recently with help from two experts Muk and Sonia that I was able to get better physically + mentally. I’ve become more patient, hardworking + committed as a result both personally + professionally.

HSF - Can you share, if you’re comfortable, what tools you have found helpful in your journey back to health?

DLM - A great therapist, Sonia specialises in inner child healing, hypnotherapy, NLP + so much more. Hypnotherapy is my favourite form of ‘travel’ these days, even if it is into my own subconscious. A positive, fun, knowledgeable + experienced coach to help you with nutrition, my trainer Muk is the best. I journal affirmations at night, say them to myself in the morning + sometimes play them in the car or while I’m walking. Realising there is no quick fix, that it is daily work and that you’re worth putting time and effort into are great realisations. Headspace for meditations, an Apple Watch to make step tracking fun + MyFitnessPal for macro counting are in my arsenal.

HSF - In your own experience, at what point did you come to terms with the fact you needed to make recovery a priority?

DLM - When we decided we wanted to start a family.

HSF - For anyone on the fence or frightened to commit fully to their wellbeing, what would you say?

DLM - Spending time improving your body, mind + spirit is the greatest investment you’ll ever make. You’re worth it.

HSF - What freedoms has your own commitment afforded you?

DLM - I’m so much kinder to myself + enjoy life much more, my cortisol levels have dropped, my relationships have improved + I’m just much happier + lighter.

HSF - Thank you Dervla, I relate to this so much. On a lighter note, what is the last book you enjoyed?

DLM - American Dirt

HSF - And movie?

DLM - Promising Young Woman

HSF - Documentary?

DLM - Social Dilemma

HSF - TV show?

DLM - Lupin

HSF - Podcast?

DLM - The Good Glow episode with Claire Moore

HSF - What are some of your unfulfilled ambitions?

DLM - I’d like to publish a book of some kind one day

HSF - And lastly, Dervla, what is next for you + Compare Retreats?

DLM - We’re adding the best luxury wellness retreats + spa breaks in Ireland + the UK to the collection

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Follow Dervla @dervlalouli // Book your next wellness retreat at CompareRetreats.com

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Dawn Hill of Florasion; The Interview

HSF - Dawn, as you’ve taught me, skin + skincare are such individualised experiences for each person. My own understanding + patience with myself has depended since working with you; thank you for that. Explain though in your own words what your philosophy with skin is…

DH - My Philosophy with skin has always been about education. Educating my clients on their skin, on products + what truly works is key for me. A fast sell has never been the aim, because I’ve been there.  I’ve left salons with a bag full of expensive products without a clue why I actually handed over all that cash. Starting small is important. When you’re educated about your skin, why it behaves how it does + how to care for it properly, you become the master of it + learn to love it more. 

HSF - As you say here, your work is about the long haul, about investing in our skin + not falling for the often BS promises the beauty industry “guarantees” us. How do you manage people’s desire for instant results + the reality that good things take time - especially now in a world full of immediate gratification..

DH - To be honest I’m straight up from the get-go. New clients can often be taken aback by my honesty + openness about the industry. I’ve worked in beauty from so many angles - from blogging back in the day, to becoming a beauty journalist, to working in beauty PR + being a brand manager for some of the most well-know brands in Ireland. I know what goes into selling a product, how to market it to the masses + most of it is BS. The beauty industry can promise the world, but rarely does it deliver. It’s all about sales at the end of the day. I tell clients all the time to manage expectation of what skincare can actually do. Although the skincare industry is booming + is always evolving, there is a limit to what it can do. I’m real about that. There are so many factors that contribute to healthy skin, skincare is a small part of it. 

HSF - I certainly don’t need persuading (fully addicted since starting on a consistent routine with the brand last year) but explain, if you will, the reasons for your love of Biologique Recherche as a strong foundational range of products for anyone’s routine + why you chose to work with them over any other brand at that high-end level..

DH - I couldn’t have started my facial studio with anything else. Genuinely. BR works, there are no two ways about it. They don’t follow trends, they set them.  They don’t include ingredients ‘on trend’, they work with ingredients that work in-sync with your skin. They also don’t put money into clever marketing + PR strategies, instead they invest in research + development. I’ve seen BR change my clients skin into healthy, stronger skin. The main thing about BR is how bespoke it is. Every serum concoction, mask mixture is done so with YOUR skin in mind. So the finish is bespoke to you, always. 

HSF - What are your favourite products from BR?

DH - Where to begin!! I can’t be without Serum 3R, Masque Biofixine, Masque Vernix, P50V, the finishing serums, creme acides de fruites, Lait VIP02, mask vivant. There are a lot!!

HSF - Good things come to those who wait (+ work consistently toward what they want) I’ve found. How long does it take most people to find balance with their skin so that you can actually step up the routine to begin to see results?

DH - I always tell clients to give it about 4-6 months. That may sound like a ling time, but absolutely nothing works overnight. Usually to be honest, it’s a year after clients first start on their skincare journey with me that we see the most spectacular results. And by then, they’re so educated about their skin + know it so well, they barely need me anymore!! 

HSF - Your clinic, Florasion, is the physical manifestation of your expertise + passion for helping people achieve their best. How is it running your own business? And how have you had to pivot during these times? (You’re a true inspiration)

DH - Running a business, especially during a pandemic has been + is a rollercoaster. It can be exhausting trying to keep it going + continuously think outside the box + adapt. But I have + always have had a vision for Floraison + slowly but surely it’s coming into fruition. I just want to create something a little different. It can be hard staying in your own lane too, your own bubble when there’s so much going on in the industry. You can start to question yourself + your abilities but I think if your vision is strong enough, it can keep you going. 

HSF - Where does the name Florasion come from? 

DH - Floraison is actually French for bloom. I absolutely love florals + the whole process of blooming + have done since I was a little girl. It was the perfect name for the business I wanted to create. A space for women to bloom, skin coming into bloom, helping skin bloom + to be its best. 

HSF - How often do you think people should be getting luxury-grade facials?

DH - It genuinely depends on the condition of the skin, what we need to treat + most importantly, budget! Some clients come in on the button every six to seven weeks, the likes of brides-to-be will come in every eight weeks + others every three months. But it’s a very individual choice.

HSF - With lock-down life in full swing again, you’re obviously not working with clients in person at the moment, how can people  get started on a personalised routine under your guidance?

DH - A virtual consultation is best! It’s pretty much like it would be in the studio, although obviously I dont get to work on the skin. But it’s quite in-depth + based around educating the client on their skin, talking through their current routine + changing it up as we see fit. 

HSF - Outside the obvious nature of products + a health focused lifestyle, what tips or techniques do you swear by in the search for better skin?

DH - It may sound boring + it’s not an over-night thing, but lifestyle. Lifestyle is huge. By lifestyle I mean stress levels, healthy sleep habits, exercise + diet (to a certain extent. I’m not into cutting things from your diet). When I’m less stressed, I sleep better, my mood is lighter, I feed myself better + my skin shows it. But of course, it takes time. I like to think of it like this; if you eat broccoli for dinner once, it doesn’t mean all those vitamins + minerals are going to benefit you straight away with a couple of fork fulls. Its a process, it takes time + commitment to see the positive changes. I swear by green smoothies too, they make a huge difference to the skin when kept up. 

HSF - Are there any skincare devices you would recommend for at-home use?

DH - Yes there a re a few!! I’m going to keep them under my hat for now, but LED + some facial muscle trainers can be amazing. Again they all take time + consistent commitment, but more on that coming soon!

HSF - What products do you think are really important to invest in + which ones are totally ok to spend less on?

DH - Treatment products - so the likes of P50 + serums. These are long contact products with small molecular weight meaning they’re able to penetrate that little bit deeper into the skin and work harder. They’re usually the most active ingredients wise. Moisturisers do just that - they moisturise + keep the skin supple. Obviously there a some that are a little more targeted + therefore will be more expensive. 

HSF - How important in someone’s daily routine is SPF? Does SPF in foundation suffice? And is there one you can’t live without?

DH - Extremely important but its important to use common sense here. There is definitely a lot of misinformation about SPFs. If you’re indoors all day + only leave the house when its dark for a walk - no SPF needed. Also - use an SPF from a brand whose game is SPF, brands that put a lot of research into their formulations. SPF in foundation most certainly will not suffice. Think of it - usually they only have an SPF of 15 in them which isn’t enough, but also think about the amount of foundation you apply - its just a few drops realistically. For SPF to truly protect, you need to apply half a teaspoon amount - who would apply that much foundation? Some SPFs are superior in their finish + protection of the skin. Heliocare is my go-to + I absolutely love their Water Gel version. I usually go for un-tinted because as previously mentioned, you need to use a lot to get the desired protection. 

HSF - What are your thoughts on cult products + skincare trends? Any you can’t stand or ones you do tend to stand by?

DH - Cult products I can get on board with but not all of them are truly cult - a lot of the time it’s noise + clever marketing + you buy the product + are left disappointed. But they do exist. Skincare trends - no. Despise them + more so when they’re plastered all over Instagram + brands jump on board. Trend ingredients are here today, then gone tomorrow. Same for treatments. For example, micro-dermabrasisson - huge a few years ago, but now you never hear of it because it can be so disruptive to the skin barrier. Dermaplanning is the same. Also trend for clean beauty (so much scaremongering + the term ‘clean’ + ‘non-toxic’ is damaging in my opinion) + the go-hard -or -go -home approach to skin is big but is just not healthy for any skin.  

HSF - In your opinion, what is the most under-appreciated piece of advice ignored by us about skin?

DH - Skin has pores, skin can be uneven, patchy + a bit all over the shop at times + that is NORMAL. Skin can change daily, even from morning to night - thats the nature of skin. Perfection doesn’t exist and when you stop searching for it, you grow to love your skin more. 

HSF - And lastly, Dawn what is next for you at Florasion?

DH - I have so many plans. But it all comes back to the same thing - to truly help people become more educated about skin + to actually love their skin. To help women become more confident in their skin really + to build a blooming empire that people love to visit, be it online or in studio.

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Book your consultation with Dawn at F L O R A S I O N . I E // Follow on IG @florasion_ie

Brian Conway, The Interview

Brian Conway is one of Ireland’s great creative exports. The Irish born, London based freelance stylist and creative producer is something of a dreamy genius and inventor of fashion stories, from editorial to commercial, that go beyond the visible, the evoke a sense of something so ethereal and exquisite that one can’t help but fall into the tales he tells in the shoots he styles.

Brian’s work has appeared in major fashion publications such as Tatler, British Vogue, Harpers Bazaar Spain, Rollacoaster Magazine, The Hollywood Reporter and Empire Magazine while his commercial clients include Aer Lingus, Specsavers, Guinness, L'Oreal, H&M, Volkswagon. He splits his time between his homeland and London and continues to work with the international set. Here I spoke with him about his career so far, his favourite designers and how to long-lasting capsule wardrobe..

Brian, where did your love of fashion begin?

I was quite young! There are photos of me dressing up with my siblings from a very young age. I was also glued to fashion TV and fashion shows as a teenager, and that further fuelled my interest. Growing up in rural Ireland before social media was a thing, TV and magazines were my main outlets when it came to learning about the industry.

How did you get your start in styling?
I was exposed to styling when I was at university, where I was involved in the DIT (my college) fashion show. Through the show I met various editors and stylists which gave me a great insight into the industry in Ireland. I then moved to London for a short period of time to intern for the designer J.W Anderson where I had the opportunity to work with the brand’s renowned stylist Benjamin Bruno. I gained hands on experience with the styling, prepping the show with Benjamin, seeing the castings, fittings and backstage on the show day. I then went back to Dublin taking any knowledge with me to give styling a go. I did a test shoot for a friend who was doing a college photography project. A well known Dublin photographer saw this shoot and contacted me to shoot with them and it just spiralled from there really.

Moving to London, how does the industry differ from working in Ireland and how did you break into the industry in such a big, creative city?

It’s a completely different ball game. In Dublin I was one of the only male stylists on the scene. Moving to London I was a small fish in an ocean of bigger fish. Competition is so fierce here and to getting your foot in the door with any publication or getting to freelance with other big name stylists is incredibly challenging. I’ve been lucky to have worked with some top artists through my Vogue and LOVE magazine freelancing.

Yes, you’re a freelancer with Vogue, tell us about your work with the Bible and how that came about..

I started freelancing for British Vogue in 2017, shortly after I moved as a fashion assistant with Hannes Hetta, the following year I worked with fashion editor Jack Borkett as a fashion coordinator on the trend supplement for the Rihanna September issue cover where I got hands on experience on how to put together a magazine. I’ve been freelancing with them ever since. The knowledge I have gained from Vogue has been very useful for my career to date.

Your editorial work is beautiful, explain to us the process of bring such amazing shoots to life and the relationship with all involved as you create from concept to the end result..

Thank you! Team work and communication are the keys to success when it comes to editorial. It’s a collaborative process between the photographer, stylist, editor, movement director, set designer, model, makeup artist and hairstylist. You need to communicate your vision clearly to execute your vision as best as possible. In terms of process, it can really vary. Ideas could stem from the stylist, a photographer or are commissioned by an editor. If an idea comes from a stylist or photographer then there’s normally a collaborative approach to refine the mood and theme the idea, in addition to the various elements involved (from location to model). After that it’s straight into pitching the publication you have in mind for the shoot. Once commissioned I’d usually dive straight into turning the idea into a reality.

Who are some of your favourite photographers and creative directors you’ve worked with?

I’m really into shooting on film right now. It adds cinematic quality to the images. I really love what Grant James Thomas and Piotr Marzec are doing right now.

How do you balance between personal taste and opinions and working on commercial projects?

When I work with commercial brands, what’s most important is helping them achieve their objectives. This often boils down to producing something that would best resonate with their target audience. Of course, there’s always room to push boundaries and inject a bit of my personal taste too. But ultimately any form of creative flair or personal input has to make sense in terms of a brand’s core identity - otherwise you’ll end up with a huge disconnect with their audience.

Where do you find yourself most inspired or how do you continue to feel inspired to create new work?

I feel most inspired when travelling, I feel like my brain switches off from mundane everyday tasks. Seeing different cultures, architecture and art really gets my creative juices flowing. I also get inspiration from designers. If a designer produces something out of the ordinary in terms of design that I will want to shoot then that will help me lead my creative process.

What are some of your go-to designers?

I really look at what every designer has to offer. I review the collections post fashion month and have a strong database of who’s doing what for the season ahead. I love Bottega Veneta under the helm of their creative director Daniel Lee, who at the tender age of 33 has an impressive resume of Maison Margiela and Balenciaga. I also adore Noir Kei Ninomiya, he creates beautifully structured masterpieces. John Galliano for Maison Margiela is always a favourite. His work with movement director Pat Boguslawski on the SS20 Paris show is a must-see. Another brand I love right now is the PeterDo.

Are there any young up and coming designers you’re digging right now?

I love discovering new designers, I think it’s good to nurture young talent and give them a platform. I always keep an eye on the Central St Martins and London College of Fashion graduates along with the designer colleges back home in Ireland like NCAD, LSAD and The Grafton Academy. Right now I’m digging Patrycja Pagas, the UAL graduate who I have used in some of my most recent projects.

Do you have a favourite shoot you’ve done?

It’s too hard to choose one as I like aspects from all of my shoots. Recently I got to work with Bella Hadid and Kate Moss, freelancing under the major Katie Grand and her team for the LOVE magazine. That was pretty great.

Who are your own personal style icons?

I don’t think I have any personal style icons but I really love @yanggenn88 on Instagram. I really love the Korean and Japanese style. They are so ahead of the game. In terms of red carpet I love Timothee Chalmounts looks, especially as he doesn’t work with a stylist - they are all curated by him.

Major fashion faux pas you can’t cope with..?

This is a funny one, I used to despise kitten heels a few years ago and now I’m obsessed with them and they are all the rage. Like any trend my pet hates can definitely change over time!

Do you believe in closet editing or building?

I find it really hard to edit my wardrobe as I have a significant memory attached to each piece I’ve worn over the years. I also believe in keeping old pieces as they can be reworked with new pieces over time. If that sounds like hoarding to you or if you are into wardrobe editing you need to be cut throat. If you haven’t worn something in over 12 months then I think you should donate it to charity or sell it on Depop or whichever online platform is at your dispoal. In terms of building, it’s great to have a capsule wardrobe in mind.

What are your top tips for creating a trustworthy and long-lasting capsule wardrobe?

As I’ve matured my wardrobe mindset has majorly changed. I used to really buy into trends and I would get carried away with the low price of something. When I’m shopping now, I really think about how a new piece can work with my existing wardrobe. I think it’s really important when purchasing something new to think how it will integrate with your wardrobe and can you create three or more looks with it and what you already have. I try and stay away from fast fashion and trends and I really focus on quality and sustainability. I build my wardrobe around coats, for me that is the foundation of my look because living in Western Europe, we layer up for most of the year, a good coat can elevate any look.

Follow Brian on Instagram @briconstyle

Images with thanks to BriConStyle.com

Edelle Kenny, The Interview

Edelle Kenny is an Irish, New York City based photographer, videographer and freelance TV producer. She has worked on major global campaigns, shooting top models and influencers, not to mention her work as a producer with the Discovery Channel. Edelle’s work is a beautiful mix of sultry and sexy with a depth of meaning very distinctive to her style. She lives and works in Manhattan and here we speak to her about her life as a photographer, her thoughts on comparisons and competition and what her dream shoot would be..

Edelle, tell us about your path into the photography world?

I’ve always been a very visual person and loved to document moments on point and shot cameras growing up. When I was 18 I started a PLC in Media and Communications and one of our modules was photography. It was probably my favourite module but I decided to pursue television and documentary and unfortunately my interest fell by the wayside for a few years. When I moved to New York I had access to different cameras in my day job and I started taking them home on the weekend to teach myself. I actually still have the first 60 photos I shot. I remember being too nervous to take photos of people. I used to go to Tiffany’s on 5th Avenue because they would have models as door men and I would creepily just shoot them standing outside. From there I decided to try make a side hustle and began shooting portraits and ‘looks’ for influencers to try build up my skills . Eventually I started booking more and more jobs via photography with private clients, brands and companies. 

 You’ve made a professional career of your passion which is something so admirable and not many can truly say they’ve achieved, how do you balance between personal preferences as a creator and your clients wishes when working on commercial work? 

This is a tough one. Like any artist or creative knows, if your work is your passion, but you are only willing to take jobs that are your creative preference, you will most certainly go hungry and broke.

For me, if I am not 100 percent invested and excited about a project I am unfulfilled. For a long time I found myself taking every photography job offered to make ends meet and then essentially not enjoying what I was creating and loosing interest in my passion. So I came up with a solution. I decided to spilt my time, I went back to working freelance in television and when a photography job came up that I was really really excited about, I would take it. 

How does the creative process happen when you’re working on a shoot?

While working on a shoot creative process always starts with a concept and deciding ‘What is the story behind what we are trying to create”? Even if the end results don’t necessarily project that story as a narrative, it’s a good vibe to remember on the day. No two minds are alike so I will usually ask for the client to present me with some visuals that inspire them and I will also create a mood-board of what is in my head and only then do we merge. On the day of the shoot, you shoot and adapt. Sometimes we’ll be trying to capture something we thought we wanted and instead the opposite will feel right, so you adjust to go with that. Everyones input is considered, make up artists, hairstylists, assistants, absolutely everyone gets involved.

On the relationship between you and the subjects you work with, how do you cultivate an environment that allows them to come to life in a way necessary for the shoot?

THE most important thing, in my opinion, is cultivating a comfortable and relaxed environment for your subject. If your photo is technically perfect and your model is uncomfortable, it means nothing. If your photo is slightly out of focus or under exposed but your model is showing their personality, then you can say it’s a great photo. You can fix photos in photoshop, you can’t fix emotions. I always sit and chat with the subject, get to know them, and ease them into a shoot.

We live in a very digital focussed generation, with so many people now creating content directly on their phones, what are your thoughts on it all and would we ever catch you using yours to capture moments in time?

I hear a lot of photographers give out about iPhone photography saying slightly passive-aggressively ‘Oh everyone is a photographer today’, and frankly, in my opinion, that’s the truth. Everyone can take a photo much like everyone is able to sing. But, it’s subjective, and I think artists need to find solace in that concept. Know that it’s subjective. Your vision of beauty is and never will be the same as someones else’s. If you have the ability to capture something that at least one other person can say beautiful, then settle for that. And if someone else is able to create that happiness with an iPhone picture, then it’s just another piece of good in the world.  Good photography is not about a beautiful person with a blurred background and perfect skin texture, (which iPhones can do amazingly now), that is good advertising! Good photography is about the beauty of this world and how you see it and sharing your point of view with the rest of us. So long story short, I am here for iPhone photography, the more beauty we can share the better. 

In saying that, I try not to use my phone for photography because I don’t think I would ever switch off. If I know I will want to take photos I bring my camera. But, if I feel I need to switch off, I leave it and home and don’t take pictures with my phone either. My camera roll is shamelessly full to the brim with screenshots of memes. 

How is photographing a celebrity or model different from photographing a regular person?  The only difference I find is the crew size. I never behave differently. I get one on one with the subject and find the connection between us. Whether it’s an international super model or if a 14 year old getting her portrait taken and we bond over favourite school subjects.People are people and everyone is a human on set in search of making that connection to feel comfortable.

Where do you find yourself most inspired?

I find myself most inspired in lower Manhattan; the personalities, the style, the stories are amazing there. It’s at times overwhelming. I walk by these two men every morning who sit and play music on their stoop and chat with all the regular neighbours. They wear very unique clothes and I always think, I just want to follow you all day with a camera. 

Do you ever get creative blocks? How do you deal with them?

Creative blocks are something I used to think where crippling and I would let them own me. I would stop posting on social media and watch other people thrive and beat myself up over it. Until I learned to give into creative blocks and see them as creative breaks. I think that’s something that is important to realise, when you’re a creative, you never switch off because you’re pulling inspiration from everywhere and everything; from the light than comes into your bedroom window the moment you wake up to the way the street lights catch a silhouette in the dead of night, it’s exhausting! Allow yourself a break and let your creative mind readjust and grow!

When do you know you have the perfect shot?

I wish I had an insightful answer for this but I just feel it. There’s always that one shot you take and you just shout, ‘this is it, we got it’ . Ironically, when you go into edits, it’s not the one you choose but that feeling on the day is usually where I put the camera down or move on. 

Living in a big city where creatives relocate to thrive, there’s so much competition; to what do you attribute your success thus far?

Competition. A word and concept I’m learning to remove myself from in every aspect of my personal and professional life. If you can lay your head on your pillow at night and know that you gave everything you had that day, it’s good enough. I remember one time I applied for a Photography Incubation Space. I went to the open day to meet the organisers to do an interview. I brought what I thought was my best work. They told me I wasn’t suitable and then referenced the excellence and creative intelligence of what was currently in the incubator. The series of photos they referenced, was a self portrait photo of a man’s testicles sticking out of his fly with a piece of pink bubblegum stuck to them. I’m not doubting this as art, but I remember leaving the studio and crying the whole way home on the subway because I was comparing myself to a testicle poking out through a pair of yellow cords. I considered giving up on photography. But trust me, DO NOT compare yourself and never ever give up. 

What’s your favourite photograph that you’ve taken.. and the one you wish you’d taken?

I go through phases but the one that immediately comes to mind is of a dear friend Ruthy. Ruth is a beautiful girl who modelled before and we see each other every week, on paper it seemed like the perfect match to shoot immediately but, we didn’t. Something didn’t feel right and I am glad we waited. When we met we were very chalk and cheese and as our friendship developed we began to understand each other more and right before she left New York I asked her to shoot. This photo is the perfect merge between our personalities. Sharp, blurred lines, sexual and reserved.

The photo I wish I had taken, with out a doubt, is ANYTHING shot by Vivian Maier.

If you were to land your absolute dream shoot, what would it be, where and with who?

Dream shoot would defintitely be with Nat Geo, photographing lost tribes. 

Who in the industry inspires you?

On a fashion visual standpoint, Matteo Montanari. His ability to photograph fashion in an effortless and documentary style is beautiful. 

For commercial and street photography, it’s a fellow Dubliner turned NewYorker, Rich Gilligan.  

Do you have any tips for those wishing too build a career as a photographer?

Take photos of what you love and take loads. You don’t need the best equipment on the market. Do it on a disposable. Curate your eye and don’t be afraid to stop people in the street and say, can I shoot you.

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Laura Beckford of Supernova Living, The Interview

Laura, how tell us a little about your journey into the health industry and how Supernova Living came to be..

Hello, firstly thank you so much for wanting to interview me for your beautiful website. 

My journey into the health industry was a pretty spontaneous one, I have always lived a holistic life, being brought up on homeopathy instead of pharmaceuticals, living in a vegetarian house, my dad is a Reiki Master and my aunt is a Naturopath, this way of living was just ‘the norm’ for me and I only realised it wasn’t for most, the older I got. After being a TV presenter for a few years, I opened a children’s casting and modelling agency, Ology Kids Casting, aged 22, which is still going strong but I wanted to spend more of my life living my passion, which is health and wellness. So after years of people continually asking, “how was I always so positive, rarely ill and always have so much energy?” I thought it’d be great to create products which we, as a family use, and helps us in all areas of life on a daily basis, presented in a luxurious and modern way. The first product came from a need to initially help my husband, who was a professional footballer at the time, to create super pure, plant-based protein powder and support what a professional athlete needed, which was much more than just protein. Ingredients to reduce stress in such a high pressured environment, reduce fatigue and inflammation, increase stamina, focus and endurance and help with gut health which most men don’t acknowledge or talk about at all. This was the start of Supernova Protein and we’ve since been developing products specifically tailored to the needs of men and women, which we did a lot of market research on.

As a tried-and-tested customer, it feels the essence of the brand is about living a beautiful life from the inside out, how best would you describe the philosophy and heart of the company?

What a lovely description of the brand, thank you. Quite simply we’re creating products that we, as a family need and we’re genuinely passionate about; our brand is our way of living with honesty and integrity which is so freeing. I couldn’t release products which I didn’t believe in or use every day. I do love being surrounded by beauty, as Marie Kondo says “it fills me with joy” and raises my vibration but that beauty comes in so many forms. It could be the mist of our lawn at 6am, the contagious giggling of our children or the smoothness of our hand carved coconut wood scoops, made from a small village in Vietnam. It sounds cliched but I do find beauty, joy and inspiration in so much. Our philosophy is to create the highest quality wellness products, with integrity, to elevate the body and mind as a whole. To help create balance in all areas of life as we lead such fast faced, demanding lifestyles.

You currently have three proteins and the (most amazing) cans to shake up delicious drinks in, can you explain to us your process in creating each product thus far..

I briefly mentioned that the MAN 02 product was the one we initially developed, for my husband, as a substitute for the whey proteins n the market that are so full of chemicals, sugars and artificial ingredients that he was being given at the professional football clubs he played at. For such a high pressured profession, we felt he needed much more than ‘just protein’ to succeed and thrive. He also suffered with digestive problems so we wanted gut health to be a focus, more energy, as well as ingredients to reduce stress, anxiety, increase focus, stamina and endurance and aid with recovery and fatigue. His statistics went through the roof after using Supernova Protein, instead of the ones he previously used and all his teammates were wanting his blend, so we thought we’d try and make a bigger batch and it sold out within weeks. From experimenting myself with this powder, I personally wanted an easy, go to blend that ticked all the things I wanted! More energy, gut support, anti ageing ingredients with masses of antioxidants, anti stress ingredients, hormone balancing and immune boosting. So we developed the WOMAN 01, which is now our best seller. The NAKED 00 was born from the desire to create the purest powder, without stevia for those who might not want a cacao based blend. The Supernova Can was always in the pipeline but we just couldn’t find one that ticked every box, I always used to use a glass bottle, but it was so heavy and I would constantly smash it when I put my handbag down and end up with water all over a shop floor, restaurant or my car! I then bought stainless steel bottles but when in the gym or driving they were too difficult to drink from and I would regularly spill water or the shake all over me! Plus they were really difficult to clean or put the powder into with a small opening. So we developed the Supernova Can, which is Stainless Steel, not plastic, so doesn’t leech chemicals into the drink. Lightweight, easy to carry, non drip, keeps it cold or hot for up to 12 hours and is a great travel size of 400ml. Plus it has a wide straw which is a pleasure to drink from and a durable outer coating in a sleek, modern design, unlike anything else out there. We love it.

Is there a plan to extend the product range?

Yes, creating and developing is my passion. We hope to release a product in Spring 2020 which we feel a large majority of our demographic will need and we’re also working with a factory now to create an innovative product inspired from something my mother gave to me as a child which I know you will love. As a brand we want to stay innovative and pioneering in the wellness industry, as it is so saturated. Unfortunately, as a small business this takes time but we want to get it right and only release products we’re super passionate about and know are not only beautiful but also highly effective.

Your branding is stunning, what inspired you to create such a beautiful, sleek and elegant vibe?

Thank you so much, branding is something I adore and although it seems a little superficial, it is the initial perception of a brand and ours had to show quality and luxury from the outset. There is a still a big stereotype of protein brands being a big black plastic tub with a huge body builder on the front. We wanted to get as far away from that as possible and show that protein is also essential for overall wellness. Amino acids are necessary for hormone production, hair, skin and nails as well as to replenish muscles after a workout! We’re a lifestyle wellness brand and want to show that health is not just about taking a powder, including ours! It’s a mindset, daily rituals, nutrition and exercise to elevate your life. Health is not a destination, it’s a continually evolving journey and needs attention every day which is why we show our personal experiences and how we live as a family too on social media. We also felt simplicity is important in our branding for ‘wellness’ as a concept can sometimes be overwhelming and people don’t know where to start, Supernova Living is about elevating your mind and body with ease. One to two scoops of powder a day with plant milk, it couldn’t get much easier!

You work alongside your co-funder and husband, Jermaine, how do you navigate a high-pressure working relationship with your husband and do you have any tips on working with a spouse?

I always said I would never ever work with my husband. I thought it was a recipe for disaster. He’s so laid back and I’m so motivated and driven, that’s why we work as a couple and ironically that’s why our working relationship is also proving to be great and epitomises Supernova Living philosophy of balance. Jermaine said in an interview recently that we are each other’s adaptogen, we keep each other in balance which is so true!

We wanted to work together as we simply wanted to spend more time together, as a family, as a couple and to travel together. I’ve always thought if you’re lucky enough to find someone who you adore and want to spend your life with, why do you go to work 10 hours a day, five days a week, with other people?! It’s great that Jermaine and I still have other passions that we work on each week, my other business, Ology Kids Casting and Jermaine is commentating and presenting for Sky Sports, Talk Sport and BBC Sport so we till have other ventures to discuss with each other which I think this is important.

My main advice would be to find what each of you excels in, this has taken us 12 months. Inevitably as a small business you both have to do everything to start with, whether you like it or not! Always listen to the other person’s perspective and opinions as it makes you think outside of your own mindset. Make time for you as a couple, not work related, time not spent talking about work or you could risk becoming colleagues first and a couple second! Appreciate each other, when you’re working together, you don’t have a boss to say ‘good job today’ or award you with ‘employee of the week’ so to just be grateful of each other and vocalise it.

What has been one of the most formative experiences thus far for you in building up Supernova Living?

So many lessons have been learnt on our journey with Supernova, which I love as we always want to continue to grow and evolve as people and a business. I feel my childhood and mindset instilled from my parents has been the most prolific experience to set a precedent for Supernova Living. The foundations of listening to your body, we usually know instinctively what we need and to work on acknowledging that instinct. To look at what we’re putting into our bodies, question whether it’s right for us and don’t always trust huge companies just because they say it’s ‘ok’ and have the strength to go against convention if necessary. My mother taught us about manifestation so it’s always been a natural part of our lives, visualising and being grateful creates more opportunities. My experiences of holistic medicine from homeopathy, acupuncture, Chinese Medicine and Naturopathic Medicine have had such a positive effect on our lives it’s definitely had an influence on developing Supernova Living. Have integrity and do the right thing when no-one is watching, that’s one of my favourite philosophies, along with ‘to thine own self be true’, which my dad wrote on my 18th Birthday Card. Also life lessons such as never expect anything, be humble and kind.

And perhaps you’d share your most notable failure to date and how it helped you grow both personally and professionally…

I’ve been racking my brain for this one and think I am struggling because I try not to see experiences as ‘failures’ I just don’t compute them as a ‘failure’ as they are simply lessons that I can learn and grow from. I don’t see them as a negative. There have been lots of things that I have done wrong; I apologise, rectify it and most importantly make sure it doesn’t happen again. We’re currently out of stock of all sachets, which I am very frustrated about and could see as a failure but it’s because we have had an influx of stockists and demand. So although this could be viewed as a ‘failure’ (and is very frustrating to me) I need to see it as a fantastic progression that they’re in such demand. I know this isn’t probably the answer you’d like so I do apologise and trust me I do get things wrong but I feel it’s all perception and there is no benefit to acknowledging anything we do as a failure, it will only create negative energy.

Seeing a gap in the market for a simplified but high-quality protein powder, sans all the horrible additives that so many are privy to, Supernova is really making a mark on the industry, positioning yourselves as a truly reliable substitute to other well-known market leaders - how difficult is it in reality to break into that kind of oversaturated market?

I think starting any business is incredibly difficult, on so many levels, emotionally, financially, physically. To develop a product with USP’s and to get awareness for the product is a real challenge, especially as a small business when we’re up against companies who have millions of pounds of investment or have global awareness from being in business for decades. We’re crazy aren’t we?! We obviously did do research before we developed Supernova Protein but I’m a big believer in focusing on your own journey and not worrying about others around you. We do find it very difficult to get awareness for us as a new brand, as some still see it as ‘a protein powder’ when it is so much more than just protein. We find educating our customers and the press on the unique ingredients is the key and giving them the opportunity to sample the powder. There seems to be an association with wellness powders and vegan proteins as awful tasting and gritty texture which we focused on in our development process. We still have a long long way to go and we’re a very ambitious company. We really do appreciate all the magazines, influencers, bloggers and customers who we have never paid, who can see our vision and have supported us since the beginning, it’s these people and companies who can make or break a small business so it means a lot.

Starting any new business is a huge risk and comes with many complications, what advice would you impart to those at the beginning of such a process?

Jump and the net will appear! I am pretty spontaneous and don’t have the same cautiousness that most do, apart from money. I don’t worry about what people will think but I am careful with money. Fear plays too much of a role in peoples lives and prevents people doing things they love and are passionate about. I would recommend to plan and do research before starting, look at your finances and plan how you will invest money in the business and also have enough to live, it’s boring but imperative. Aim high, I have huge expectations and I work incredibly hard to achieve them. I see from people we interview for jobs that not many have so much drive or desire to succeed, if you are your own boss you HAVE to have self discipline and drive to succeed as no-one else is going to tell you to get up and do the emails or be proactive in the business. To find the drive you have to start a business that you’re passionate about or it will feel too much like ‘work’ and you won’t succeed. Surround yourself with likeminded, positive people and get help from specialists with skills that you may not be the greatest at. Perhaps invest in a PR agency and a business coach for guidance now and again. I’m nowhere near where I want to be yet but I know I couldn’t work any harder, I plan to work smarter to get the same results….it’s a work in progress!! Create a life that feels good on the inside and not just one that looks good on the outside.

What does a day in the life of Laura Beckford look like and what role do you play in the daily running of the company?

A busy one! I get up at 6am, drink a pint of water when I wake, go over emails and highlight important ones I need to address urgently. I then do a mini meditation or yoga to wake me up and put me in a positive frame of mind. I body brush and if I have time I’ll do a 10-15 cardio in our gym to raise my vibrations and mindset to start the day. This can take no longer than 20 minutes in total as I then have to get the children up and ready for school and is my ideal way to start the day, it does not happen every day though!! My husband and I are a great team in the morning and have specific roles to get them out of the door on the school run by 7.30am, if I take the kids I listen to a podcast about business on the way to the office or back home, then I make lists! I love lists. A list to our creative team, a list to our executive assistant, a list for Jermaine and myself for life jobs and also Supernova jobs all whilst having a WOMAN 01 with plant milk! My days are so varied, I can be meeting a new stockist, journalist or sampling at events, festivals or partnerships like Barrecore, Lululemon or Facegym. I do spend a lot of time on emails, as I do everything for Supernova from designing, developing, invoicing, marketing, social media. I am trying to delegate and we are starting to hire people but it’s difficult as I have very high expectations. It’s especially busy at the moment as we’re improving and making a new batch of each blend which is always difficult as I’m so conscientious to get the right certification, organic, processing etc to make sure it’s as pure as we want. If I have to pick the children up, my day is short, as I leave at 2.30pm, then I’m mum and take them to tennis, netball, football, swimming, horse riding etc! I do try to be present with them but it’s difficult especially when I have emails coming in every day that are important and I need to reply to. I always put them to bed and then maybe do a Peloton session, or yoga at home or a couple of of times a week I go to play tennis (which is my sanity saviour!) I get my laptop back out at 8pm and will usually work until at least 11pm. I love to unwind at the end of the day in our far infra red sauna with Headspace on, followed by an episode of Working Moms on Netflix!

You’re a busy lady Laura, with your young family, two flourishing businesses (Laura also owns Ology Kids Casting) and generally just being a superwoman, how do you find balance in your life or time for yourself though?

I’m certainly not Superwoman! It’s a daily challenge and I have to remind myself that it is not an ultimate destination, as things are always changing we have to adapt. Which does fit in with the Supernova Protein as the adaptogens literally adapt to what your body needs at a certain time!!  

Ironically it is a challenge for me everyday whilst the business is still so young but it is at the forefront of my mind as I believe balance is so important for a happy life. My children give me the balance I need as they are my first priority which makes me cook healthy meals, get outside and exercise with them, play and be silly, which is underrated as an adult. My husband also makes me switch off by dragging me out for brunch or for a bike ride if I’m super stressed. I also always make sure I go to play tennis if I can as it’s my two hours in fresh air that’s just for me. I am always busy but I like it that way. I also write down every few weeks the areas of my life such as friends, family, me time, work, exercise etc and see where I am spending most of my time and perhaps reassess which areas need more attention.

Do you have any daily routines or rituals you can’t survive without?

A pint of alkaline water on waking, Supernova WOMAN 01 every morning, lists, Neom Face / Body oil, being outside, preferably on the beach, in the woods, in the countryside where we live, kissing my children goodnight.

What's your guiltiest pleasure?

A vegan chocolate mochi ball by Mini Moons…..SO good but I don’t feel guilty about it!!

What is your beauty routine and what are your favourite brands?

I’m pretty low maintenance with regards to beauty, I’m a big believer in if you eat pure organic food and a lot of filtered water, your skin will glow naturally. I am at my happiest without make up, hair in a bun on the beach in the sun. I always body brush and use Neom oil and Ren shower products. That’s all I use!!

If you’re hitting up the gym, which classes or trainers are you loving right now?

We’ve just partnered with Hero Wellbeing and their new space at Angel Gardens in Manchester which is just fantastic for all types of workouts, it’s inspiring. I love yoga and have practiced since I left ballet for yoga at 15. I regularly do Tara Stiles workouts at home and whenever she’s in the UK, Claudia Mirallegro does a great hip hop yoga class at Lululemon in Manchester and Barrecore too. When in London I love Louisa Drake and Simone De La Rue as I used to dance as a child so love the choreographed classes. I do try to get to a pilates reformer class whenever I can and although I’m not a lover of high intensity classes I’m really looking forward to trying The Trip by Les Mills in the Cycle Studio at Hero. I also love outdoor tennis too.

If you had one more hour in your day how would you spend it?

Going to the beach with my children.

To what do you attribute your success thus far with Supernova Living?

Tenacity. I don’t look left or right, I solely focus on our journey, how we can continually improve and I don’t accept no for an answer!

With all it’s pros and cons, social media can, at times, be a real pressure to depict the picture-perfect life. Do you feel it and how do you deal with that strain?

Yes, I think it is inevitable. We were having this discussion in the office earlier this week and I started Instagram on my personal account as a ‘photo album’ of our life. All the best bits to look back on, I wouldn’t choose the pictures of us arguing or crying to put in a photo frame so I don’t do it on Instagram. It has now, however evolved into this facade of life and becomes worrying when people see it as ‘real life’ not just a highlighted showreel to be inspired by. From a business perspective, it is frustrating as it’s a full time job in itself to promote a brand on social media and you can be judged by the amount of followers or engagement you get which is crazy. Life is not perfect and I do like that there are more and more accounts on Instagram, especially for young girls with women showing cellulite and rolls of skin which is completely normal, even with a healthy diet and exercise. My focus, as I briefly mentioned, is not to look at other brands in our genre and just follow inspiring businesses and accounts who I am motivated by. 

Do you have a personal motto that you live by?

Oh wow, I have so many. I love a quote and positive affirmation.

“To thine own self be true.” // “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food” // ‘Carpe Diem” // “Happiness and balance are not something you find but something you create.” // “Just do it”

If you weren’t doing what you’re doing where might we find you?

I’d be expanding my other business Ology Kids Casting which I’m also passionate about.

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Architect & Designer Gulla Jónsdóttir, The Interview

In person, Gulla Jónsdóttir is as fabulous as her work is fierce and quite frankly put, a force to be reckoned with. Based in Los Angeles, California she heads up her own firm, Gulla Jónsdóttir Architecture + Design which she set up in 2009. After years of designing hotels from LA to Hong Kong, private residences in California and New York, restaurants in Paris and Mexico, a superclub in Beirut and a skyscraper in Dubai, the infamous designer has a portfolio that puts her on the map as one of the 21st centuries most skilled and sophisticated engineers of design. Growing up in Reykjavik, Iceland she left for LA where she studied architecture as an undergrad in SCI-Arc. Following in the footsteps of those who truly succeed in their trade and ultimately find their own path, upon graduating she sought out the greats and looked to learn from those who inspired her. After years of creating as part of incredible teams at Richard Meier & Partners Architects, Dodd Mitchell Design and Walt Disney Imagineering she now takes pleasure in leading her own team and continuing her work which now inspires and ignites the lives of all who enjoy her creations. I was thrilled to chat with Gulla and discuss where it all began, her inspirations and aspirations, taking in exactly why this visionary has been hailed as the new Zaha Hadid. 

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Gulla, where did your love of design begin?

In Florence Italy when I was 12 years old.  I was mesmerized by the beauty of the city and the arts. Architecture and design are undoubtedly one and the same, merging aesthetics with structure, formational with the ornamental.

Was it a natural evolution for you to move away from straight architecture to what you do now?

I am still very involved in architecture and especially architecture with artistic integrity, this is my first passion and design is my second passion and indeed a very fluid transformation from architecture. There is no limitation to creativity so whether I'm designing a skyscraper, interiors or a piece of furniture, it's only a different scale and mindset to me, but it all relates to the same DNA of site-specific beauty that can complement its surrounding nature.

What was your first job in the industry and what stands out to you as some of the most important lessons from early on in your career?

I was very lucky with my first job and grateful to land a job right out of architecture school at Richard Meier's office working on the Getty Center Museum; then the largest project in California. I learned so much from Richard Meier and I still appreciate his work and how peaceful it is. There is an element of elegant geometry in all of his work and since I majored in mathematics before studying Architecture this very much appealed to me.

Your work takes you around the world, what’s been your most exciting project to date?

There are many and I feel like they are all like my children, just living in different cities. I like working in Mexico and my recent project there, Comal at the Chileno Bay Resort and Residences in Cabo, is very close to my heart. So is the Macau Roosevelt in Macau China, which is the first ground-up hotel I designed under my own company name; a 368 room lifestyle resort which just got an award as the Best Resort Design 2017 from Interior Design magazine.

When working on projects abroad, how important is it to bring about contextual elements to your creations?

It's very important to me! It's the first concept I start working on with each location. I like to walk around the site, scope for natural elements that can influence the design and always prefer to use local materials and handcrafted local furniture whenever possible. 

The new Kimpton La Peer hotel in L.A is your latest gift to the world. Could please explain the creative process involved in such a huge work of art..

This project is particularly dear to me as it is the same location as the studio I started in 2009. We have taken it step by step for the last few years through careful consideration of the neighborhood, and fellow artists and artisans are installing a piece of their energy and soul in the project and in the end I feel like we have succeeded in our tempt of creating a symphony of the arts for the neighborhood in a very comfortable setting that can feel like your home.

How do you balance consistency in your work as a designer while never letting your ideas become repetitive?

I follow my heart and I believe that design comes from within. The exciting challenge derives from creating something new for each project and this is what drives me. Always.

I hear you’re working on a jewellery line too, can you tell us a little about it?

The jewellery line came organically as looking at a 3D model of a facade I previously designed but didn't get built. Rotating it around I thought it could look like an interesting ring. We test printed it in 3D and gold plated it and it feels good so this is the beginning of something more brewing that we will launch later this year.

You have a great sense of style and are always dressed so beautifully, has fashion had an impact on your story thus far?

I believe high fashion is an art form so yes sometimes it does inspire me. I can see a flowy fabric and imagine it in a solid concrete shape and so forth.

Where do you feel the world’s of art and fashion collide? Do you consider them to be one and the same?

The real haute couture in terms of artists such as Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and others in that calibre is in many ways equal to fine art, the only difference is that it is wearable for your body and other art is sometimes a social and or political statement or for its pure beauty and storytelling. What they have in common is beautifying the world with creative energy.

That is such a beautiful way of explaining it. Wow. What does a day in the life of Gulla Jonsdottir look like?

I wake up around 8 am and make an espresso, shower and answer emails at home, although my New Years resolution is always to start with meditation instead of looking at my phone.. ( one day.. ! ). I arrive at my studio around 9:30 am and catch up with my team and clients and walk down the street to get a delicious almond milk cappuccino. Late morning I visit my nearby projects that are under construction in West Hollywood and downtown LA.

Twice a week at lunch, I work out with my trainer at the park and usually eat a healthy lunch like a salad with salmon or chicken at my desk. In the afternoon I have conference calls and continue on designing, sketching new and ongoing projects and thankfully no day is the same when you work in a creative environment. Right now we are working on our first atelier which will be inside one of the hotels I'm designing so this is a new exciting challenge for us and a new business that I will invite other artists to participate in.

Late afternoon I call my mom in Iceland before she goes to sleep, text with a few friends and by 7 pm its time to grab a glass of wine with friends or colleagues and some snacks at the bar and then I go home and pick up my suitcase that I half hazardly packed late last night, and catch my midnight flight to Hong Kong or anywhere the projects take me.

I make sure to set up dinner with friends in that city when I land and happily turn off my phone because I refuse to believe there is wifi on planes and this is my time to do absolutely nothing. I love it.

Is there a fundamental rule you live by, personally and professionally?

To be true to my heart, genuine, loyal and honest. I sleep very well at night because I live an honest & peaceful yet adventurous life filled with very good people around me both in my personal and professional life and for them, I'm very grateful.

How do you navigate between the public's view of you and your own private life?

I'm always the same, I don't have a poker face and I treat everyone the same; with kindness. 

What are up-and-coming architects catching your attention right now?

The architects in China are doing some fantastic things right now. I see a big growth in Asia in pushing the boundaries and exploring new forms and materials in a very interesting way.

What was the last book you read?

1Q84 by Haruki Murakami.

Who or what is your greatest inspiration?

Nature, always nature.

Is there something you dream of designing?

A museum, a skyscraper and an Olympic stadium. 

..and what building do you wish you had designed?

Anything by Santiago Calatrava 

What are your unfulfilled ambitions? 

Learning more languages fluently. I speak a few but I need to find the time to fulfil this ambition.

If you weren’t a world-renowned designer, where would we find you and what would you be doing with your days?

Interesting thought, wow. I think I would be a Sherlock Holmes or James Bond sort of a woman solving mysteries and travelling and then would retreat to my villa in Tuscany painting paintings and drinking red wine from my vineyard.

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Photographed below is Gulla's latest project, Kimpton La Peer Hotel which recently opened in West Hollywood, LA.

Read more about Gulla's career on Haute So Fabulous here. 

Javier Martin, The Interview

Javier Martin, a multi-disciplinary contemporary artist, is on a mission to break boundaries and have us question, as a society, who we are and what we believe in. Politically and ethically charged, his deeper meaning approach to art and each of his collections to date was born of a life-long devotion to his passion which has seen him grow from is first exhibition at the tender age of eight back in Spain where he grew up, to showing at galleries an museums around the world. As a true artist, his limitless attitude sees him continuously evolve on his personal journey, which he allows be defined by one thing only: the message he wishes to bring to life. 

Javier has been working on his current collection 'Blindness' for a collective 10 years. It is here he tests the limits we place on ourselves in terms of defining beauty and what is has come to mean in a world that tolerates nothing less than perfect. Here we speak to Javier about his discovery of art, the importance of expression and his devotion to eliciting a more curious culture that seeks answers instead of following conventional standards. 

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Javier, tell us a little about your journey into the art world...

I began painting in oil colors when I was seven years old, and my first show was for the CAJA Madrid Young Artist Award at nine. I have always worked in a creative way because art is my passion.

At what point did your passion, that clearly started so young, turn to something you were making a living from?

I never made a conscious decision to become a professional artist. Everything progressed in a very natural way. I have always lived for my art, and one day you wake up and realize this has turned into a career. This did not happen overnight though; I have been making art for over 20 years. For me, art is something that lives inside of you. Art is my whole life.

Your current collection, 'Blindness’ is captivating not only for it’s beauty but it’s deeper meaning.. can you share what this collection is about?

For ten years, I have analyzed society’s actions, explored superficial perceptions of what is beautiful and valuable, and questioned the theory of genuine beauty and truth. I transform and deconstruct this idea of manufactured perfection used in advertising to explore the warped notions of beauty and value. In my work, I always conceal the eyes. Eliminating one’s most compelling and expressive tool to me is representative of how society’s triviality blinds us and takes us further from what is truly important.

Do you feel being untrained - in the traditional sense of having studied art at college - has allowed you express yourself more freely as an adult artist, and in fact allowed you to remain uninhibited and limitless as the writer of your own story?

I do. I don’t subscribe to one specific style or medium. My focus is on communicating a message. My first contact with art was when I was seven and began painting in oil colors. In that class, my instructor gave me the freedom to experiment. I never painted to recreate an image like the rest of the students but painted what I saw in my mind or my emotions. From the moment I discovered art.

That was my only formal art training, as I did not have the opportunity to study art as I began working at a young age and I now apply the skills I’ve acquired to creating art. Travelling, visiting museums, meeting people around the world was my education. And still is. I believe art is synonymous with freedom. Art isn't above anyone or anything. That's the beautiful thing about art because it allows people to see things from different perspectives.

 As an artist, how do you bridge the gap between the freedom of creativity and the restraints of consumerism?

I don’t feel those restraints on my freedom of creativity. I focus on making what I want and, if anything, consumerism is a source of inspiration for me. I base my art on my observations of society, what I create invites the viewer to think critically and reflect on the issues I believe are especially prevalent. Everything from consumerism, immigration, war, the game of politics and everything in between. I don’t criticize anything but merely put two realities together, and people can form their own opinion. Art has a purpose and should not just be beautiful. As an artist, I have responsibilities. I have the mission to say something meaningful.

 ‘Lies and Light’, one of your performance art pieces was revived with high regard, take us through the process of bringing such a performance together..

For many years I have been attracted to the idea of fully immersing myself into my work, creating something where I am completely present. With performance art it's interesting because it's art created at that moment and then it disappears forever, only the people present with you at that time get to keep a piece of the art. It’s something incredibly intimate and changed how I approach my work.

When I had the opportunity to do something like this, I decided to take all of my personal experiences and battles and transform them into a performance, connecting them to my Blindness concept and my work with lights. I felt very vulnerable when performing the piece, but I also a strange sense of power and release.

Can you tell us about your studio and take us through your creative processes there?

I look at my studio as my temple. Sometimes, I will just go there and walk around, clean things, move things around as if in a trance. Other times I will go with a clear idea and work until it’s complete. But usually, I am working on multiple projects.

Do you ever struggle with creative blocks?

I usually don’t because my mind is continually working and thinking. I have a book where I keep all of my ideas. Typically when I have an idea in my mind, I take out my book and write it all down. The problem is the battle of when I have the energy and the time to make the idea a reality.

Where do you find yourself most inspired? And by whom?

Every moment I live and experience is essential, but it’s interesting because I am often the inspired when I am by myself either immersed in nature or lost in my studio amongst my materials. It’s in those moments that I don’t have anything to distract me, I can reflect, and regain my balance. I grew up in Marbella next to Malaga the city where Picasso was born. He was one of the first artists I connected with when I was very young. Another artist who inspires me is Maurizio Cattelan as his art carries strong messages meant to revolutionize society. But everyday people and our culture inspire me the most because it’s the basis for so much of my work.

 To what do you attribute your success thus far?

Three words. Consistency, time, and passion. Over the years, I have never lost focus, passion or my ideas. No one is going to fight for you or pave the way for you. You need to find your truth because that’s the only weapon you have to fight. I believe and trust in myself.

What exhibitions are currently catching your attention in terms of contemporary art?

The Michelangelo Pistoletto’s retrospective at Blenheim Palace.
Ai Weiwei’s latest city-wide public art installation ‘Good Fences Make Good Neighbors’ with Public Art Fund.
Daniel Arsham’s first solo show in Russia ‘Architecture in Motion’, at the VDNH's "Karelia" Pavilion.

What is it that you want people to take from your work?

I want people to take a minute and just think. We often do not not wish to see our reality and are blinded by so many different things within our society, there is nothing more dangerous than to lose the window to your interior and only focus on the superficial. Self-reflect and find who we truly are inside and what we really want from this life.

 How does your art play a part in social change do you think and in essence pave the way forward for greater expression and less insecurity?

My focus is always on sending a message, the important thing for me is to make people think and reflect on where we are now as a society. I love the idea of changing the standards of beauty. I believe we still have a lot of work to do before we start to embrace everyone, not for their similarities but for their differences. I hope that the message in my art can help at least one person discover their light and the freedom that comes with it. As an artist I have responsibilities, I believe through my art I can change the world.

There a recurring thread of personal philosophy to each of your creations..

Yes, I want to express something powerful and meaningful because art has purpose and power, so it should not just be beautiful.
However, we live in a very superficial world, so I often use beautiful things to draw people in, because if it's disturbing, people tend to look the other way. My Blindness Collection is an example of this. At the end of the idea, we are all the same and dealing with many of the same challenges. Everyone possesses their own unique beauty. But what's most important is who a person is, what they think, feel, and believe.

What has been your greatest challenge to date and how have you dealt with it?

Fighting all of my life to become an artist and to be free from this system laid out by society. But believing in myself, listening to my interior and having a clear vision of the path laid out in front of me has really helped. No one is going to fight for you or pave the way for you. You need to find your truth because that is the only weapon you have to fight. I believe and trust in myself, I pick myself up every time I fall, and I always continue on my path. That is the only way to keep a dream alive.

And your proudest moment?

Seeing myself and my work in a museum for the first time. Earlier this year, I presented a video art of my first performance piece 'Lies and Light' in the Museum of Contemporary Art Jacksonville. Interacting with the people of that city and realizing that what I do as an artist has power, through my art I can affect change and accomplish my goals. I continue to learn about myself every day and the things I am capable of doing.

If you had one more hour in your day how would you spend it?

I would spend it creating and making art.

www.javiermartinart.com

Day Lau of Cafuné, The Interview

Cafuné - pronounced ka.fu.nay is not just a beautiful Brazilian-Portuguese word meaning the act of playing with a lover's hair but one of the luxury market's most recently established accessories brand. Founded in 2015 by childhood friends Day Lau and Queenie Fan, the company is making it's mark on an industry that is slowly but surely finding it's worth in more niche markets and tightly directed and curated design. After a lifelong love affair with arts and culture in general and a fondness for minimalist design, the duo pay close attention to strong construction in their collections and the finer details in each piece. With Cafuné, an immense weight is also placed in craftsmanship and the materials used to bring to life modern yet timeless creations that have found themselves in the style stores of consumers around the world.

In such a short space of time, we've seen them grow vastly with front row presence on the arms of some of the most influential bloggers and editors in the world and are stocked in some of the most notable retailers in Asia. Here we chat to Day about realising the dram of setting up Cafuné, the challenges faced and what's next for the brand..

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Day, would you kindly tell us about your career thus far and what brought you to the point of creating Cafuné?

After graduating from LSE, I moved back to Hong Kong and worked in Giant Communications, a boutique communications agency that specialises in property and architecture. They specialise in strategy, marketing and PR work for clients in the real estate sector, e.g. Swire Properties, SOM and Heatherwick Studios. During that period, I also helped with the setting up of Very Hong Kong, an independent art and culture programme with a strong community focus; and Event Horizon by Antony Gormley, the most extensive public art installation in HK. 

Around 2014, Queenie (who used to work in New York as a handbag designer) and I started to discuss the idea of creating our own brand together. When she relocated back to Hong Kong in mid 2015, we started Cafuné.

What is the philosophy behind the brand?

Cafuné’s accessories portrays the beauty of shapes and forms. Our accessories are minimal and timeless with well-considered details. Carefully crafted with Italian leather, offering superb quality that does not cost a fortune. Our brand is not trend focus, and instead we focus on the purity of design and construction; creating accessories with quiet elegance.

What roll do you play in the everyday running of the company?

As Managing Director of Cafuné, I oversee the operations, finance, sales and marketing of the company. Day to day work varies a lot, since we are still a small team, Queenie (our Creative Director) and I share all the work between ourselves. For example, I still have to pack the goods and deal with shipping and logistics! All in all though I think my biggest responsibility is to ensure that Cafuné has a solid business foundation so that Queenie can have a stress-free environment to design without worry.

How would you describe yourself professionally?

Motivated, organised and meticulous. 

When in the concept and design phase of creating a new product, what or who inspires you guys?

Queenie does all the design work, but as a brand, we are often inspired by sculptures and architecture, the play of positive and negative spaces in relation to form.

Seeing a gap in the market for a simplified but high-quality luxury accessories brand, Cafuné is really making a mark on the industry but how difficult is it in reality to break into that kind of a niche market?

I think there is opportunity for us in the luxury sector now because it has shifted focus to the mass market. To me, luxury is not just the price tag, but the design, the quality and exclusivity. Yet, many brands are now introducing second line with more ‘affordable' prices and subpar quality for a wider market, which to me, dilutes luxury. So what we are trying to do is to stay focused (it is so easy to lose sight of your own path in such a fast pace ever changing industry) on our aesthetic and quality, to slowly build a reputation and position in our targeted market.

Starting any new business is a huge risk and comes with many complications, what advice would you impart to those at the beginning of such a process?

Do research - we took a year to research and save up, before launching Cafuné. It is quite important to understand the industry and business environment you are going to be in. 

And don’t be afraid to ask questions - at the beginning there will be a thousand questions in your head because there is no rule book on how to start a new business, so we would often just ask experts in the field for advice. It is a great learning process to meet with people who have more experience than you.

The collections are minimalist in nature - endlessly elegant and empowering, how do you set yourselves apart from the masses of new brands emerging?

You are certainly right about MASSES of new brands! There are so many brands out there nowadays, and customers are exposed to new information, fresh visuals so frequently it is hard to stand out. Being able to ride out trend-based waves, and offer customers a strong modern design that speaks quietly of luxury is how we set ourselves apart.

Where are your products produced and how does the process unfold from concept to consumer?

We are produced in China, with a factory partner that has always worked with European and American contemporary labels. They have been a great partner, their team has a great sense and understanding of our brand, so our designs can be fully realised through their workmanship.

Often times our inspirations come from nature, sculptural forms, and architectural structures. It’s always a fun challenge to implement these ideas into a functional everyday product. Hence, it’s important to convey our ideas through materials, colors and details. We source from across the world (leather from Italy, trimmings from South East Asia, fabric from Europe etc), and our materials really strengthen the concept and complete the product. 

Season by season, 'influencers' are taking their positions front row alongside high-powered editors and season after season are becoming more and more powerful in the industry, what are your thoughts on the digital age and the rise of the ‘influencer’?

There is no doubt how big a role influencers play in the fashion industry now. I think the main reason is their ‘closeness’ to ordinary customers who feel they can strongly relate to them. Brands nowadays have to be really agile, to respond to new digital trends so not to lose touch with their audience, and influencers is one such channel to stay connected to our audience now.

Where do you see you relationship as a brand sit in terms of collaborating with influencers?

As a brand, it is up to us to find creative collaborations and partnerships with influencers, to offer our customers and future customers a fresh take of our products in new contexts. 

What do you look for when teaming up? Is it all about the number of followers or the quality of content created by an individual and perhaps the direct link to your exact client?

We look for influencers’ sense of style and aesthetics, whether it aligns with our brand and if they represent our customers well. Also, we look at an influencer’s quality of content and his/her engagement rate with followers. I believe the better the engagement rate, the better the result. We would also look for individuals that have a strong regional reach, so we can tap into new audiences in places that we aren’t exposed to or stocked at.

Your pieces are stocked in both bricks-and-mortar stores in Asia and online at Shopbop and LUISAVIAROMA - are there plans to expand into Europe and North America?

Certainly, Europe is our major focus now so we go to Premiere Classe every season to showcase our collection and meet buyers. There is a lot of potential in the market despite great competition!

Do you have a personal motto that you live by?

“Do unto others as you would have them do unto you”

If you weren’t doing what you’re doing where might we find you?

I might still be in the property marketing field since it was actually really exciting work. I used to work on projects from scratch - from naming, to branding, strategy planning, wayfinding design, marketing angles etc. There was also chance to meet with really talented architects (e.g. Thomas Heatherwick)! 

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Shop Cafuné 2017

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Richard Malone, The Interview

Having graduated from Central Saint Martins just three years ago, there is something extraordinary about Richard Malone and his impeccably chic yet distinctly powerful impact on the fashion industry thus far. 

The designer, born and raised in Co. Wexford, Ireland, is a true talent and beyond having mastered pattern cutting and a flair for seriously original creations, he possess a refreshingly humble approach to his success thus far, not forgetting the pressures designers face in the ‘real world’ today. Living in a time where the designer is glorified as a celebrity in their own right, his sole aim is admirable as it is discerning and quite simply put, is to design clothes for a generation under pressure; bringing about a sense of authenticity and threading through each collection a feeling of what’s truly important. 

With a mission to change the way we look at fashion - all while remaining far from airbrushed front pages and filtered Instagram feeds - this young designer has an array of accolades under his belt including LVMH’s honourable Grand Prix scholarship, the Deutsche Bank Award for Fashion (previously won by Christopher Kane) alongside being considered one of the Best young Artists under 25 in the UK by the BBC.

His collections have been received with high regard from the influences of international press and have appeared in some of the most respected publications worldwide from LOVE and Dazed, British Vogue and WWD to AnOther and Interview. 

Malone’s collections are stocked at some of the globe’s most prolific stores including Brown Thomas in Dublin, Selfridges in London and Joyce in Hong Kong.

In conjunction with and with sincere gratitude to Kildare Village, I chatted to Richard about his path to date and his recent undertaking as judge at Kildare Village’s Racing Colours Competition. The winner, Kate McGowan has been awarded a year long internship with him at his London studio and with Richard Malone as a mentor we’re sure Kate’s name is one you’ll want to know in the very near future..

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Richard, you’re currently one of Ireland’s most prolific young designers with many accolades to your credit thus far. Where did your love of design begin?

I feel like it has always been there but perhaps a bit more abstract in the beginning. I was constantly drawing or sculpting - making anything from anything really so it was probably very obvious I would end up doing something creative, even though we haven't any other artists or designers in the family. Working with my Dad on building sites from a very young age and also being forced to wear a school uniform made me very aware of different types of dressing - things like functionality, conformity, how clothes can construct parts of an identity etc. Originally I was doing sculpture and performance before a tutor introduced me to Central Saint Martins and I thought I’d better go there even though I had no fashion experience and art at my school was completely shit. It was only when I did a short course in Waterford when I was 17 that a tutor introduced me to contemporary art, she was absolutely brilliant in pushing you outside your comfort zone and getting you back in line, she really made you take things seriously, her name was Anne O’Regan.

You’re incredibly open about your upbringing in Ireland with your current collection paying tribute to the work uniforms your Mum and other family members wore on a daily basis. Can you tell us a little about the process of each collection, from idea to customer.

I never try to focus on other references, looking at other designers or time periods etc - its such an easy formula. Originality is something I believe to be incredibly important, especially at a time when it is so lacking and so many seem so happy to conform, also we have a real problem with people from backgrounds like mine not having access to education. I really believe that your upbringing and surroundings are crucial to your identity as a designer, I’ve never tried to ignore where I’m from and luckily at Saint Martins it was really encouraged. My point of view is totally different as a result, and especially in an industry that is full of the upper class and extremely privileged. Theres something to be said for having to fight for your place, and I’m happy creating and working in the way I always have; essentially making something from nothing - its very creative and quite erratic, often creating forms away from the body and constant trials and errors. Its also super private and my working process/drawings and video works are never something I’ve allowed to be published although I’ve been lucky enough to have them collected by some amazing museums around the world. I’ve taught myself some quite extreme pattern cutting skills so I’m really proud that every piece that comes from the studio is pattern cut by me, as it's a skill that designers are losing all the time. People forget that creating garments is a skill, theres so much rubbish now thats made for Instagram, this front on image of a white teenage model that no woman can really relate to. Its really important to me that there is diversity in my casting for the shows, and that we aren't having negative conversations about womens bodies in the studio, or projecting negative ideals out there. I also hate that fashion is consumed as a front on image now, as opposed to being experienced. I alway design totally 3d, sometimes focusing silhouettes to the back or details all on the back of a garment, I really like when things don't register properly in those photos, as that's not their purpose for me.

Upon graduating from Central Saint Martins was it difficult to navigate the working world as a designer? In essence, to bridge that gap between the uninhibited world of creativity and the reality of making a living..

I was incredibly lucky on leaving Saint Martins. I’d already spent a year in the design team for Louis Vuitton in Paris and then came back for my final year, where I won the LVMH scholarship. It was my first time in uni that I didnt have to work 2 part time jobs to pay for it so I was just ploughing through all this work I would have never had the time to do before between jobs, and we’re always in 7.30am-10pm at CSM.. I think because I’d already been at Vuitton, which is fashions biggest company so I knew the inner workings of a corporate beast and I knew I couldn't really be part of that machine for any longer, its just a system that at its very core I despise, even though I absolutely loved the people I worked with it was just too much ‘stuff’. The day after I graduated CSM I was lucky enough to have two amazing job offers from huge houses in Paris who’s creative directors were changing hands, I met with both teams but said no to each one, even though everyone thought I was insane. I knew after final year and that accomplishment that I should just do my own thing and always stick to my guns. Creativity is now at the core of everything I do, I get to work on a tonne of projects and commissions that you would miss out on if you worked at a huge company, and working with private clients and working on your own terms is so much more rewarding. Everything is a risk but every accomplishment feels magnified because you did it entirely off your own back.

Working at a large fashion house can be restricted I would imagine, it’s not the designers who direct but rather the businessmen who need to see the return. Time at Louis Vuitton was clearly a hug3e learning curve but what was the greatest lesson you learned at such a huge house?

The power of saying no. Designers are expected to jump up and down for these companies but you have to give yourself some worth. I’ve been lucky to have that experience with Vuitton for over a year and I've consulted for some big brands since - there are times that are brilliant and obvious perks but it all depends on your mindset and your personality. At the end of the day I’ve never had money, I didnt grow up with money or excess so making decisions based on how much money I’ll get from it has never appealed to me, the cash reward doesnt interest me one bit, and some of these companies will throw money at designers but they just don't know the value in having creative freedom. I actually find it so weird when I go into a Vuitton store and you see things you've designed selling to thousands, well more like hundreds of thousands of people, it doesn't feel very personal or special, it's just product after product after product and nothing like I’d design for myself. These luxury brands have really killed what those namesakes originally stood for, I bet they'd turn in there graves seeing how these beautiful artisinal pieces have been reduced to something similar to a pound shop find but with a massive mark up. I mean Vuitton was never a fashion brand until the 90s, its bizarre that they do eight shows a year now really. It taught me much being there. If you figure out what you actually want to be doing decisions become extremely easy. At the end of the day creatives are the bread and butter of all of these companies, the business men know strategy and market but have zero taste or initiative. It's the same as all of these ‘business’ fashion brands like The Row and Victoria Beckham, they are not designers but brands, and there is a real difference between a designer and a brand - anyone with money can start a brand and hire the right people but you know something personal and raw and real when you see it, it doesn't need an explanation. The best lesson is to have balls and work harder. 

Now that you’re well established with your own design house, how do you find or create that much-needed assurance between creativity and consumerism?

I’m very lucky to work with some incredible private clients who respond to the most creative pieces, and they've been selling really well since my graduate collection. I think when you are doing something creative and have an identity you’ll always have a customer. When you start doing bullshit cap sleeved shift dresses then you're up against every other brand with bullshit cap sleeve shift dresses. The reason I started my own brand was so I could avoid the easy selling crap, I also never work in black which scares some stores, but I just don't - I also don't own anything black, I have a complete aversion to it.

What does a day in the life of Richard Malone look like?

Hectic. It peaks sometimes around showtimes or when I have particularly hectic deadlines. Like at the minute I’m working on a project in the states so in the last 2 weeks alone I’ve been to Los Angeles, San Francisco, Mexico, New York, Ireland for a day, back to London and now I’m in India looking at some sustainable production and development techniques. But everyday is totally different so there is never really a typical day as such, if I had a routine I’d get bored too easily. Except on Fridays and Saturdays you can pretty much guarantee I’ll be watching RuPauls Drag Race somewhere. I’m also obsessed with dogs so anytime I can be around dogs I’m pretty much there.

Where do you find yourself most inspired? And by whom?

Anywhere, although I do love Wexford when I’m home as its so relaxing and so far from everything else. My family and my grandmother are always very inspiring because they don't give a shit and know how to have laugh, everything is a joke and its always great to be around that. 

It’s an admirable trait in a designer to leave behind the trappings of the fantastical and bring about a foundation of the everyday in their designs. Your humility and lack of vanity in your work is beautiful and very much reflects that value. Is that a conscious direction you’re taking? 

Not necessarily, I mean some clothes I design to be extremely functional, some are more like limited and one off pieces or ‘museum’ pieces, there has to be a balance - if I did 10 extreme sculptural pieces I’d be equally as bored as doing 10 pairs of flares.

Taking into account the world of social media and the pressures on designers these days to share their every move in the attaining of celebrity status themselves, how do you deal with such pressures and where do your values stand on the world as it is today?

I ignore it completely. Social media can be a good thing in terms of transparency or rallying for elections, but its so fake and forced the majority of the time. If it's proven anything to me its how bored most of the world is and also how there is such a lack of individual identity now - I mean what is with this bizarre contouring make up? And everyone trying to look like a Kardashian? Or Gucci making collection after collection that looks like any charity shop find with a logo on it, it's actually mortifying. Its really shown me that most people are sheep and we have to fight against that, having an individual taste is dying so quickly, I mean how many posts can there be about a minging Chanel bag thats been around for 60 years or how clever someone is for rolling up there fake worn in jeans to show off some Stan Smiths, it's sometimes plain stupid. I just hate the idea of making money out of someones insecurities, because at the root of it thats what it really fosters and its a bit of an epidemic. A place where people can boast about shit and make a fake personality they spend all day hiding in their real lives. We have to remember how to have conversations and stop using it as a distraction - get out and talk to people. I’m the same as my Mam in a way, if you even take to your phone at dinner with me I lose my mind, although my Mam would probably throw something at you. 

In a natural evolution, designers tend to find their own signature inclinations as each collection accumulates over time. How do you ensure your collections remain fresh and never become stale to your customers?

Keep honest, work hard, only listen to the few people you trust.

Do you have a mentor and what has been the greatest learnings up to this point that you hold on to?

I have a small group of people who's opinion I really, truly value, my boyfriend is one of them. We actually met before applying for Saint Martins and we both applied and got accepted, the odds of that happening were crazy and the odds of us both coming out the other side unharmed and not psychologically damaged are almost unheard of. He’s a genuinely brilliant artist and is always by my side and vice versa. His work is so intelligent and sophisticated its inspires an awful lot of people. Also my family, my grandmother is brilliantly honest and incredibly creative - she's constantly busy painting or making photo books or getting back to her countless friends, she's 83 and slaying life basically. I've never come across someone that age with such a modern take on life. I’ve also a couple of close friends who are also artists and some of my incredible tutors from Saint Martins who have since retired. Other than that I rely on myself for most things. 

Do you have a life motto that you live by?

Not really, although I’d never base a decision on money, it's the most useless thing.

Your pieces have been worn by some incredibly famous people and shot in the world’s most influential magazines. What does it mean to you to have that recognition and ultimately, who is your ideal customer?

I think its nice but I don’t place much real value on that side of things. Press has never really interested me and although my works been in all of these incredible magazines I dont really read fashion magazines at all. The recognition is lovely and much appreciated but I think learning to critique your own work and value it differently and individually is more important, away from current trends that don’t relate to it. Being nominated for designer of the year at the Design Museum this year was really incredible and so unexpected - it was really surreal seeing it in the exhibition, I also have a really exciting museum project coming up in New York that I feel so honoured to be a part of. Seeing your clothes worn and lived in by women who inspire you is the most rewarding thing - from Bjork and Roisin Murphy to some incredible artists, collectors and gallerists, you get to learn from them and have brilliant conversations about anything and everything, that's really my favourite thing. It's also really funny when I think that I made my first collection in the top of my Dad's shed in a tiny room and now the label is stocked all around the world, from 8 locations in America and Canada through to stores in South Korea, Hong Kong, Shanghai and of course Europe. It's a bit mental.

You recently sat on the judging panel of The Racing Colours competition in association with Kildare Village. What was the like to reach a point where your opinion and level of excellence hold so much influence?

It's great and its nice to have really open conversations with other people in the industry. I think you learn that every opinion is important, and also that opinions are just opinions at the end of the day and they should never deter you from doing anything. You also realise there is so much support there if you look for it. I’ve tutored several times at Central Saint Martins since and its really quite a weird experience - I’m not even out of it three years yet, same as the judging, I just think that it's best to be totally and brutally honest and give the best feedback you can, that's the only way any of us learn. We all have to support each other at the end of the day and if there's a way I can help someone I certainly will. I also think what Kildare Village are doing in sponsoring students education, showing their work etc is really incredible and so so smart, that is really what is needed. Even through these internship programmes it's such a great way of getting these students and graduates into the industry, as obviously there is no fashion industry here that can create jobs and sustain lots of progress for designers. It breaks down that homogenised thing where only rich students can do internships, now it goes to the person with the most talent. You have these stores here who do pop up events for graduates and students but its completely self serving - it's a way of them making more money for themselves and promoting themselves in the right light whereas Kildare Village are willing to actually put the money on the table and get these students into education and show their work in real exhibitions, we need more of this - actual tangible support that will help these students succeed. I mean stores are only good if they have your customer and the customer base here is tiny. I’ve seen work here that I would never have really seen otherwise, and I can help people out as we’re all very closely connected in the fashion industry, I mean its tiny. If theres an opportunity for someone that I think suits whether its in Paris with one of the houses or with another young designer that I think they’d love I’ll definitely put them forward for it. 

What do you look for in young designers wishing to make their own mark?

Honesty and integrity, you also need to work fucking hard, like more-than-you-can-imagine hard. Designers are the most critiqued people in the whole industry, there's thousands of fashion graduates every year and hardly any jobs, like close to zero with the big houses. There are tonnes of rich privileged kids ready to intern for free so you better be doing something right to get your foot in the door. Have a point of view also, I’ve come across so many students who want to work at Celine or Dior, so they make a collection that looks like Celine or Dior and thats completely the wrong way to go about it, they already have teams of people to create that, what they need is a new voice and a new perspective.

I understand the winner of the competition, Kate McGowan will enjoy a stint of work experience with you in your studio in London, how did internships add to your own personal growth as a designer and what do you wish to give back to those who will in turn learn from you?

Yes they did, I helped out a lot of young labels and friends at CSM too. Internships are super important in understanding how this bizarre industry works and also finding your place within it, not everyone is a designer - in fact it's a very rare trait. I hope that they have fun in my studio, enjoy it enough to work hard at it and are committed to seeing it through - there is nothing worse than someone not wanting to be there, you usually end up doing them a favour and asking them to leave. It is important also to surround yourself with people who are passionate and excited about what there doing.

If you weren’t a world-famous designer, what do you think would fill your days?

Sculpting or painting, and walking and entertaining several dogs. I also read like crazy, so I would probably read even more.

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This publishing of this interview is with great thanks to Kildare Village.